Balms Vs Creams Explained: Choosing The Right Formula For Your Skin
Our skin is ever-evolving, influenced by hormonal fluctuations and everyday environmental changes. During these transitions and to navigate these transformations effectively, it's essential to pay attention to our skin's needs. Adjusting your skincare routine with the right balms and creams ensures your skin stays hydrated, nourished and protected.
You may notice differences in textures, hydration, or breakouts over time. Are you using the same balm or cream year-round? Understanding these skincare principles will help you choose the right formula for your unique skin barrier and needs.
Cream versus balm: more complementary than contradictory
Contrary to popular belief, creams and balms are not skin nemeses. Depending on the formula, they complement each other, harmoniously working together.
Creams, unlike balms, contain water. Each formula is different, and the water can come in various forms such as purified water, floral extracts, and even aloe vera. Our Replenishing Body Cream for example, is an indulging combination of water and Damask Rose hydrosol, as rose water offers additional toning and soothing benefits.
Creams typically combine both water and oil-based ingredients to meet multiple needs. We categorise ingredients dispersed into oil-in-water emulsions which provide a milkier texture, and water-in-oil emulsions, which result in a denser, creamier texture. Cream formulas can contain emollients, which are substances that soften, soothe, and enhance moisture levels (usually fats and oils), humectants that attract and retain water, and occlusive ingredients that prevent moisture from escaping the skin while forming a protective barrier. As a result, creams are particularly valued for their ability to moisturise, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and soothe eczema-prone, and irritated skin.
All skin types can benefit from cream formulas, but they showcase particular advantages for acne-prone or clogged skin, as they tend to be lightweight. Some formulas provide both hydration and nourishment. A balm is more suitable for addressing dryness and irritation, while a cream delivers faster water-soluble nutrients and assists with signs of premature aging. In terms of texture and sensory experience, creams are easy to apply, absorb swiftly, and possess a higher oil content compared to gels.
Balms, as aforementioned, are waterless, making them more concentrated.
Because they do not contain water, balms require little to no filler or preservatives. The base ingredients typically include fatty oils, plant butters, and waxes. This composition explains why products designed for areas that need intense repair - such as dry feet, cracked heels, elbows, knees - favour balms. Balms are excellent for soothing flaky, scaly skin and for providing long-lasting protection. They create a protective layer that locks in moisture. Our Rescuing Body Balm features a core formula blending Rosehip oil with pure Shea butter, Babassu seed oil, and glycerin to deeply repair the skin.
In facial care, balms are particularly well-suited for dry and mature skin, which tend to produce less oils, but to reiterate, the effectiveness still depends on its specific formula. For oily, blemish-prone complexions, formulas incorporating oils rich in linoleic acid are usually well-tolerated.
In body care, balms federate more because the skin in these areas differs in thickness, tolerance, and sensitivity. Balms have a thicker and more emollient texture, providing a deeply nourishing and indulgent feel. Their consistency is more waxy and richer than their cream counterparts. Subsequently, balms do not absorb as quickly as creams, which is expected since they are meant to form a protective layer on the skin.
Dry or dehydrated skin: often confused, yet different
Essentially, dry skin lacks oil and requires nourishment, whereas dehydrated skin lacks water and needs hydration. Another distinction worth noting is that dry skin is a persisting issue that can aggravate depending on a series of factors. Dehydrated skin is a temporary issue, it fluctuates but never persists.
By late March, it is common to experience both a depleted lipid barrier (dryness) and a lack of deep cellular water (dehydration). A common test to differentiate between the two is after a shower. Allow your skin to dry for about 15-20 minutes, and pay close attention to the signals sent by your skin: itchiness often indicates dryness, while tightness often indicates dehydration. Dry skin types usually require emollient and replenishing formulas, while hydrating formulas and humectants are remarkable for signs of dehydrated skin.
Some of the best ingredients to tackle dry skin are ceramides, squalane, shea butter, and argan oil. Some of the best ingredients for dehydrated skin are glycerin (humectant), hyaluronic acid (humectant), niacinamide (vitamin/antioxidant), and panthenol (vitamin/humectant).
If you are under the impression that your skin is dealing with both issues, opt for a formula combining hydrating and nourishing ingredients, such as our Replenishing Body Cream which contains Rosehip oil – an outstanding and versatile oil known for its ability to both hydrate and moisturise. Rosehip oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, which strengthen cell walls to prevent and minimise transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and support the skin’s lipid barrier. This makes it a stellar ingredient for treating dryness and itchiness without clogging pores or causing breakouts.
Balms and creams can be layered
As mentioned earlier, our skin transforms over time, and layering products can help meet its evolving needs. Typically, the recommended order is to apply a cream first, followed by an oil-based serum, and seal with a balm, since the balm locks in the products underneath. Next, we’ll explore waterless, concentrated formulas and how they deliver deeply nourishing care for the skin.
Bio-individuality also plays a role. Each skin is unique, and paying attention to its signals is key. Alongside guidance from dermatologists and cosmetic professionals, take a moment to listen to your skin.
Your body is always trying to communicate with you. By becoming more mindful and attuned to yourself, you’ll also approach skincare with greater clarity and ease.
